My Most Memorable Wines of 2024
My most memorable wines of 2024 aren’t the most highly rated and reviewed but the ones that told unforgettable stories. I have taken more of an interest in natural wines and have tried to focus on small vignerons, most of them being organic or biodynamic, respecting the process from the vineyard to the cellar.
We met my sister Barbara and her husband Duncan at Caves Legrand, one of our favourite wine bars in Paris (07/02), and had a delicious natural wine, Gitton Pouponneau Grange Saint-Sauveur Clandestine Cuvée 2019 selected by the sommelier. 80% Grolleau Noir and 20% Cabernet Franc grown on clay-limestone soils from 80-year old vines on a site farmed biodynamically in the Loire Valley. It had élevage for 18 months in demi-muids. Supple, mineral, and vibrant. We also enjoyed a 2018 Fidès, a pure, richly concentrated Chenin Blanc by Eric Morgat, one of the new stars in Savennières.
highburyvintners.co.uk
Emma and I had a tour and tasting with rising star Prunelle de Navacelle who uses biodynamic principles in Beaujolais-Lantignié (08/02). Prunelle is part of a group of winemakers seeking Cru status for Lantignié. It’s a great terroir situated close to Morgon with pink granite and volcanic blueschist soils. We were impressed with her bright, expressive Lantignié (2021,2022) and Régnié (2017, her first vintage, and 2021) from exceptional quality old-vines. Régnié is the most recent Beaujolais Cru with lighter wines from sandy soil. Her Beaujolais-Lantignié 2021 was the standout; I was impressed by the wine’s architecture and mineral precision. We also had a tank sample of her first vintage of exclusive Beaujolais-Lantignié Blanc 2023 (only 300 hectares of Chardonnay planted in the region but it flourishes on more eclectic terroirs such as Lantignié) to be released later in the year – watch this space.
prunelledenavacelle.com
We visited Château Thivin, a picturesque estate on the hillside of the Côte de Brouilly (08/02). The terroir is defined by its blue volcanic rock and granite soils, which contribute to the wines’ distinctive mineral quality and complexity. We tasted several wines, including an excellent Clos de Rochebonne 2022, a white Beaujolais made from Chardonnay grapes from organic (and certified) farming. The wine had a bouquet of white flowers and citrus fruits, underpinned by an elegant minerality. Delicious.
We had a bottle of Domaine de Montille Beaune 1er Cru Les Aigrots 2020, which was only appropriate as we were staying at their former winegrower’s house La Maison de Pommard, owned by Isabelle de Montille (08/02). One of Burgundy’s great estates, renowned for elegant, understated wines. Beautiful aromatic complexity. The wine was fermented and matured in 600-liter oak casks (15% new oak) for 12-months. The domaine received ‘Ecocert Bio’ certification in 2012. Since 2005 the estate has also converted to biodynamic viticulture.
demontille.com
We had the opportunity to taste not one but two Grand Crus, including 2013 Corton Clos des Cortons Grand Cru Faiveley (the only Grand Cru in Burgundy alongside Romanée-Conti to bear the name of the proprietor), at a private tasting at Domaine Faiveley in Nuit St Georges (09/02). But my favourite was a 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin, Lavaux Saint Jacques, Premier Cru, Domaine Faiveley (also adored by Jerome Flous, Technical Director) which perfectly illustrated the elegance and finesse that a great wine from Bourgogne can offer and why I love Pinot Noir. Intense aromatics and dark, brooding complexity, characteristic of wines from the Côtes de Nuits. Domaine Faiveley was the first Burgundian wine domaine to convert 120 hectares of vines to organic practices.
(Sidenote: excellence in on-site marketing – what other winery has a Rodin in the courtyard overlooking the vineyards! ).
domaine-faiveley.com
I enjoyed a delicious Domaine Drouhin Oregon Cloudline Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Oregon 2021 on board BA in the First Cabin from DXB to LHR at 37,000 feet (12/07). The Willamette Valley has a cool climate deriving primarily from latitude but with some marine influence. The 135 acres under vine are certified sustainable. Cloudline clearly conveys winemaker Véronique Boss-Drouhin’s dedication to elegance and finesse. The palate was fresh and (mostly black) fruit-driven, silky texture and layers of complexity. High alcohol for Pinot Noir (13.9%). Spectacular aromatics the defining feature. I love Oregon Pinots.
vinvm.co.uk
It was wonderful to meet my daughter Nicole and her fiancé Matt Barnes at Archive wine bar in Toronto (07/09). Our first of six wines (apparently) was an organic Fumey-Chatelain Crémant du Jura Blanc Brut 2021 made with 100% Chardonnay by Marin Fumey. Since 2017 the entire domaine has been in conversion to organics and has since implemented biodynamic practices. This convivial sparkling was followed by a unique Lambrusco Migliolungo wine made from 21 grape varieties, an homage to biodiversity expressed in an artistically reworked label. This historic Emilia Wine group wine won the Etichetta d’Oro Vinitaly Design 2021.
sagerandwine.com
I brought over two bottles of Rock Angel Rosé 2020 by Château d’Esclans in Provence to my son Logan’s place for dinner (08/09). A complex and structured rosé with lovely aromatics and good acidity. Partial oak aging added richness and texture and the flinty minerality another layer of complexity. Vinified in 600L oak barrels (demi muids) in addition to stainless steel during which battonage is done twice a week over six months prior to bottling. British Airways introduced this beautiful rosé in its First cabin for three months in 2023. It paired well with my son’s fantastic pizza (rivaling Anthony Mangieri’s Una Pizza Napoletana) made in his Ooni pizza oven.
hedonism.co.uk
We missed Norm Hardie, owner and winemaker who was away on business in Denmark, but he arranged a comprehensive tasting with Assistant Winemaker Freddie Rae (09/09). Norm is an iconic Prince Edward County pioneer who has always made extraordinary hand-crafted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from this cool climate appellation. Barrel tastings showed the 2023 vintage is promising. The highlight was the 2020 County Chardonnay Caillerets Unfiltered, the first single-vineyard Chardonnay from the estate, with hallmark acidity, minerality and length, which paired beautifully with fresh East Coast oysters.
normanhardie.com
We missed owner and winemaker Céline Chauvet at a tasting at Highbury Vintners in June, so arranged a private tasting at Domaine du Grapillon d’Or, a jewel in the Southern Rhône (11/09). We were honoured to be given the opportunity to taste Gigondas Les Deux Parcelles 2020 made from 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah. Only 1,000 bottles were produced from two parcels from 1919 and 1929. Concentrated, powerful, exuding elegance. A work of art from one of the best producers in the Southern Rhône.
highburyvintners.co.uk
We were excited to try Californian winemaker Jonathan Purcell’s Vin Noé ‘Nouveau’ 2024 at Rotters’ Fête du Beaujolais, the now legendary annual tasting outside the bar on Lamb’s Conduit Street, London (21/11). Inside Noble Rot, we enjoyed a bottle of Vin Noé ‘Nouveau’ next to the fireplace and caught up with Jamie Goode. An excellent ‘Nouveau’ from one of Beaujolais’ finest vignerons – best I’ve ever tasted.
noblerot.co.uk
sagerandwine.com
Dermot Sugrue – Britain’s finest winemaker – was about to disgorge a Sugrue South Downs ‘The Trouble With Dreams’ 2023 when we arrived at the new winery Bee Tree vineyard (22/11). We were the first to try it. We tasted several barrel samples and world-class sparkling wines, including Sugrue South Downs ‘The Trouble With Dreams’ 2019, a classic blend of barrel-fermented Chardonnay (60%) and Pinot Noir (40%). Stunningly beautiful. Precise with racy acidity, complexity from extended lees-aging, and tension. First class. Only 7,500 bottles produced. Dermot also introduced us to two new cuvées: a brilliant ‘Bonkers Chardonnay MV’ still wine and a Pinot Noir made from Crouch Valley fruit, both from the near-perfect 2022 vintage, which hadn’t been released yet. From barrel samples to aged magnums, Sugrue wines are brilliant at every stage of development.
sugruesouthdowns.com
Logan’s girlfriend Vanessa opened a Pearl Morrisette Irrévérence 2020, an aromatic, Chardonnay-dominant (51%) blend, before father and son went to see favourite artist Pat Metheny at Massey Hall, Toronto (26/11). Purity, elegance and precision, the wines were blended a year after harvest and spent an additional 8 months aging in a combination of old foudres and puncheons. Thank you Vanessa.
pearlmorissette.com
Emma and I celebrated our anniversary at two-star Michelin Il Ristorante Niko Romito in Dubai, and shared an ethereal Etna red: Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso Guardiola 2020 selected by the sommelier (20/12). The Terre Nere Guardiola Etna Rosso is an organic Nerello Mascalese from the ‘cru’ vineyard area of Guardiola at an altitude of 1000 meters on the volcanic terroir on the north side of Mount Etna. Wonderful purity and minerality, and lighter in colour giving it the texture of a refined pinot noir. Beautiful length. My wine of 2024.
hedonism.co.uk
Finally, we opened a Ca’del Bosco Franciacorta Cuvée Prestige NV (with respect to our friend Marco Troncon at Bersi Serlini) and an iconic Turriga Argiolas 2019 to pair with our Sardinian-themed Christmas dinner of Porchetta Sarda, Pecorino and Pane carasau at home in Muscat, Oman (25/12). The robust and tannic Turriga Isola dei Nuraghi IGT had herbal notes and was built around Cannonau sourced from the limestone-rich Turriga vineyard sitting at an altitude of 230 meters above sea level. A perfect pairing.
hedonism.co.uk